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Museum of Surf
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George's Stories

My First Surf Trip

So it was my first ever surf trip past Norah Head in around 1961, I was maybe 16, five of us left Turramurra at 4.00pm on a Friday arvo and non stop, well apart from massive fog banks leading into Bulahdelah that made driving at 10k’s an hours perilous, to Byron getting there just after midnight, lucky for me I  couldn’t drive as no licence then so I was pretty rested. We crashed out in the Pass in and around the Holden wagon to wake up at first light to waist high nice waves so we were at it. Absolutely stunned when by lunch time there were still no more than 10 crew in the water. We ended up setting up a little camp back further in the Pass and after the ranger checked us out all was good. We ended up staying 4 days instead of 2 and surfed our hearts out with no hassles, never crowded, sunny and off shore. It really was a surfers dream and a trip never to forget even now at 77 its still crystal clear.

Ugh's Reef

So the trip was on, I think it was around April 1963,  Crescent was the focus for three days, 4 of us frothing to get away again. About 3 days before we  were doing the normal 4.00pm Friday arvo escape Surfing World came out and on the cover was the headline of the recent discovery of a pretty unknown surf spot that SW had named UGH’s Reef as the story was about a bunch of guys from Maroubra one of them Ugh Andres (I think that’s the right spelling) and this recent but very vague description of getting into the headland some where up round Taree.

AS we did have a bit of time we decided to head out along the road out to Old Bar and referring to the SW we’d brought with us about turning right off the road along a two wheel rutted track …. somewhere along the road closeish to Old Bar beach. Anyway we tried a few to have dead ends and very near serious boggings BUT one we did take went further, it was very narrow with bushes scarping along our mates fairly new Holden wagon so he wasn’t impressed but with no where to turn around it was just straight ahead.

After maybe 30 minutes we hit open space as saw in the head lights a grassy beach front, sandy sort of boat ramp, a few old fisho’s fibro huts and a beautiful looking rocky and boulder head land. Sleep was difficult but in the first light saw UGH’s Reef, known also as Saltwater, with nice point waves around head high and no one. So Crescent was off and we stayed for three days not  seeing any other surfers, the odd fisho, who seemed to think we were a bit odd. It was all good and a wonderful introduction to a spot that became one of our fav’s right thru to the early 80’s. So many great memories and some of the crew that we’d bump into from other areas that we knew …………….small world and that firsts trip was very exciting to be able to surf a spot that had been fro such a long time only known to a few locals and there were very few of them, Jimmy & Gary Wright, Taree born n bred, and a few of his mates …. the locals.

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About Museumofsurf.com

This site was a result of a long conversation with an avid collector of vintage surfboards. I advertised a vintage board for sale on ebay and Wayne was the highest bidder, when he came to pick up the board we spoke about the history of surfboards and the people behind the scenes that never recieved the accolades they deserved.

Wayne had an extensive collection and he also said he would like to setup a website one day to share his collection with other like minded collectors. At the time I had just gotten back on my feet after spinal damage and surgery, which left me unable to do a lot so as a collaborative effort we started by pulling boards out of Wayne’s shed, house, under there over there, there were surfboards everywhere, an amazing collection. After I took photos of Wayne’s collection, I gave him a digital copy of all his boards so he could show others and also for him to peruse at anytime without having to pull the boards out.

As you will see from the list of collectors, there are an amazing amount of collectors and the boards they have are incredible. I think it only appropriate to thank all these people as they have so willingly allowed us to share their passion with all of us.

If you have a collection or even one board and would allow us to share, please contact.

rob@museumofsurf.com

 

Midget Farrelly: Ric Chan Photography

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Rob Ryan

rob@museumofsurf.com

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